GRAND Canyon

It has been on the bucket list for 50 years. We have always found ourselves driving “near” it in January or April. Way off season and we try to avoid cold, which at 7,000 feet on the South Rim it will be in those months. The bar mitzvah delayed our eastward migration until the first week in July. We endured much heat in Jojoba Hills and all the way through Phoenix area – average high of 107! Finally got to Grand Canyon and found tolerable temperatures in the 80’s.

We no sooner got set up in Grand Canyon Camper Village in Tusayan, as close to the southern entrance as you can be without entering the park, then we headed over to the airport to check out helicopter flights over the canyon. We waited 45 minutes for our flight with Papillion in their newest chopper. We took off and flew low over forest and desert headed for the canyon. We knew we were approaching the rim when the pilot dropped even lower and seemed to pick up speed. Then he turned on “Thus Spake Zarathustra” timing it so that the grand crescendo coincided with the ground dropping out from under us and the canyon being revealed. I laughed, I squealed with delight and I clapped my hands! OMG! We saw the key points one looks for in the canyon without really intruding on the tourists on the ground. We flew over the North Rim looking for buffalo (bison) that apparently had gone into hiding since the morning flight. Some saw an elk, Carol and I didn’t. After landing we drove into the park to get an overview.

Carol getting off the Helicopter. Better than words.

Somehow we still had energy so we drove into the park as far as the Village which is as far as a private car can go in summer season. We reconnoitered and planned for the next day before returning to the coach for dinner.

Friday we took in the NatGeo Imax, Almost across the street from our campground, then found a spot in the Visitor Center parking lot after a really good lunch at Sophies Mexican Restaurant. Carol was enticed because their signboard advertises vegetarian. We started riding shuttle buses and taking some walks to see the canyon. This is a great way to get around as there is limited parking, even in the visitor center parking lots and there is a shuttle that runs from Tusayan which permits one to avoid driving into the park. On our drives we also saw several cow and bull elk along the road. Exhausted we returned to GWhiz and put together dinner.

I am resisting posting pictures of the canyon. There are so many wonderful pictures on line and in books that it would feel foolish. This is Carol on the longest walk we took, just over a mile. We are both still recovering from our most recent trip and as we got exhausted from this really brief walk, I had to remind us both that we had come from sea level to 7,000 feet in a day.
Saturday we took the car and drove out toward Desert View Tower along route 64, still in the park. We stopped at the Tusayan Museum:
Figures made from a single twig split and bent

The “new” Kiva, replacing an earlier one destroyed by fire in the ancient Tusyan Village

and at the Desert View Tower:

which was too crowded and hot for us to consider climbing to the top. From there we turned back to G Whiz to rest and write. One stop along the way will provide what may be our exit photo from the Grand Canyon:
Duck Head Rock

Time Compression

Just two weeks ago we celebrated our anniversary, in San Diego. After a week back in Jojoba Hills we headed into Los Angeles in the Jeep for grandson Avi’s Bar Mitzvah. A Bar Mitzvah (becoming an adult in the eyes of the community) is always a special occasion. This one was particularly special since Avi is our youngest grandson. At dinner I mentioned that the next “simcha”, joyous occasion, was likely to be a wedding. I didn’t even look at the eldest, now 24 🙂 I swear that wasn’t what I was thinking.

When the Torah was brought out of the ark it was handed to my sister to carry through the woman’s side of this orthodox synagogue. After I was called for my turn to honor the Torah our grandson Azriel was called. We had never seen him called up so this was very special for us, and I got to stand with him. Finally Avi got to do his thing. Later, after the Sabbath had ended Avi got out his Sax and played several numbers for the family and friends. He has talent coming from our musical family and it showed.

Our boys in the middle
Sandy’s children to either side
and her youngest grandson

We returned to Jojoba via Astro Camp in Idyllwild where we and Dan, Malena and his clan dropped off Avi for two weeks of camp. Dan followed us back to Jojoba Hills where they saw why we are so very happy there. We toured a bit and then had a delightful dinner at our wonderful patio set under the glorious cantlever umbrella before they started driving toward LAX (stopping near Temecula for the night) for flights east.

We used Monday the 4th to prepare the site for our absence and the coach for the road. This morning we rolled out at 9:30 with a stop at Parkhouse Tires in Thousand Palms to torque the studs holding the tires on and to pick up the hub cap replacement that had been ordered for us. In and out in 15 minutes. Next stop was a lunch break at Chiriaco Summit along I 10 where there is a museum and memorial to George Patton!

This is where he developed a training camp for preparation for the Africa Campaign. 
We moved on down the road to fuel over the border in Arizona and then stop for the night in Quartzite. Ordinarily we would drive off into the desert and dry camp, but given the 100 plus temperatures I figured to burn $20 worth of diesel keeping the generator running through the night to keep the air conditioners going (gallon an hour for 8 to 10 hours). So here we are in an almost empty campground with the air conditioners struggling to keep it near 80 in the coach.
Tomorrow? Grand Canyon or some intermediate stop along the way.

52 Wonderful Years!

Today, June 21, 2016 is our 52nd anniversary. We have celebrated this memory of a time when we were really, really young (our eldest grandson is older then we were when we gt married) in so many different ways and places. Today was weird, special. Given a whole lot of stuff I may get into below, my attention was not focused on care of the motorhome. A couple of weeks ago it crept into my mind that a year had passed since we have any service done on it. I decided that a trip to San Diego was worth considering, since there is a Freightliner Oasis Center there (Our chassis is Freightliner and Oasis is their brand for techs trained in servicing motorhomes not just big trucks- they keep things clean). There are few good places to stay close in and no free spots so I booked a place near La Jolla where we had stayed many years ago. Somehow as I was putting this together the fact of June 21 as an anniversary barely surfaced in my brain. Great, I booked the service for the 21st and the campsite for the 20th and 21st.

We spent our anniversary in the customer lounge of San Diego Freightliner. During this exciting day I attended a preplanned virtual (on my part anyhow) board meeting of CityNewspaper and conversed with assorted drivers and service people working at the counter. The service took from 9 AM until 4 PM plus paperwork leaving us to drive separately through SD rush hour to get back to the campsite.

Our great minds are closely linked after all these years and we mutually agreed that dinner out, again!, made perfect sense. I will report on Nine-Ten Restaurant and Bar in La Jolla later, maybe even later in this post.

Monday, last night, we arranged to meet Ron and Jing at there apartment across the street from the baseball stadium where the Padres play. We got to know Jing through my late mother who hired her give a massage several times a week. Jing morphed into a caregiver and ultimately into a friend and that is how we met Ron, her husband. We hadn’t seen them since Mom died and they moved out to San Diego after Jing retired as a Xerox executive and Ron retired from teaching at RIT. We had a delightful visit and then dinner at a Chinese/Japanese restaurant across the street from the apartment.

Later: Somehow we left earlier then necessary to make our reservation, I think I misread the clock or something. Carol is still in some pain when walking so that would not be a great option although that is much of what La Jolla is, given the parking is very difficult. Between a couple of fire trucks blocking traffic and just traffic in general we managed to arrive only 30 minutes early we elected to sit in the parlor of the hotel built in 1913 that houses the restaurant and had a delightful moment to relax with nothing hanging over our heads. We entered the restaurant a bit early and they had a table ready and seated us immediately. The wine list is extensive so we were saved on learning that the by the glass list was more limited. I had a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carol had a Syrah, both California wines. With any luck we will remember the wineries too. Carol had a lovely vegetarian dish and I had roast Halibut. No pictures, they were food! excellent food, beautifully presented, the taste was divine. I would recommend this restaurant to anyone who isn’t worrying about how much it costs. Those kinds of worries would spoil the meal.

As for distractions, Carol has had a muscle/ligament/joint pain since the middle of our Hawaii excursion. It moved from one side to the other with the truck trip to Green Sand Beach. She is walking with a cane to take pressure off the hip area and we are waiting for the results of an MRI. I continue to have painful skin cracks on the heals which reduce my desire to walk. In general terms “bummer.” We are hoping to make full recoveries in time to begin trekking again the end of August.

Wednesday we will complete our stay in San Diego by replacing all six perfectly good looking five year old tires on the coach to be relatively more certain of an unremarkable driving experience as we cross the country in hot time this July.

For those who keep asking: Leave CA July 4, Arrive Essex Junction VT July 23 to 29, Arrive Rochester August 1, leave Rochester for safari August 24 returning September 20, leave Rochester for the winter sometime in October. That’s all we know for now.

Maui to Home

Wow, we are back in GWhiz recuperating from our recuperation in Hawaii. Our AirBnB in Maui was a wonderful change from small campervans and luxurious hotels. It is a small, well appointed condo. Chris, the resident owner, has built her own private loft space and we pretty much had the run of the rest of the condo for our use. Breakfast on the lanai overlooking the ocean was a daily happening.

We were quite near Lahaina and other places to dine and shop and took advantage of the time to take two wonderful drives in our funky rental Jeep. We spent an entire day driving the Hana Highway which follows the coast around the south of the island Hana Highway Guide for details.
Carol standing in the road to get a special picture!

A not so calm shoreline along the coast

Rainbow Gum Tree, not native, in Arboretum


  

Because I could
Hamoa  Beach – the most beautiful beach in the world! just a little hyperbole
Unique, both of us with waterfall on my head

On our last day in paradise we chose to take the shorter drive to the north from our location in Lahaina up to the cliffs and overlooks along the shoreline. We went as far as the blowhole before turning back:

Not an atypical warning sign!

It takes an active sea to create a blowhole! 
That little puff in the upper right is the blowhole. We were tired and had endured enough rough rock scrambles for one trip!

The next day we flew from Maui to Honolulu and onward to Los Angeles where we stayed the night before picking up a rental car to get us back to GWhiz in Aguanga CA. We’ve done some doctoring and hope that Carol makes a full recovery from the pain in her left leg so we can make our trip to Africa, not to mention the much earlier Bar Mitzvah of Avi at the beginning of July.

Today I made a bad mistake. I opened an email from OAT (Overseas Adventure Travel) before deleting it. We have booked a trip to Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan for next May. This was not on our list, but it is open for tourists so we must go!

On to Kona and Beyond

We had a delightful dinner at Ohelo with Frank and his wife Zoe. The food was fine and the company even more so. So much so that we sat at the table long after paying the bill to the distress of those waiting for the table. The staff did not even bother us at all.

The next day we set out for Kona with dreams of coffee and other treats along the way. Of course we could not pass through the territory unimpeded.  First there was the Ka’u Coffee festival that called us off the road, I tasted several interesting coffees, none worth the asking price to me ($15/7 oz bag minimum). Being fully caffinated  we moved on down the road stopping at Black Sand Beach again to look for turtles.

Which we found. There were also several in the water which were hard to photograph. After a stop at Punulu’u Bakery for lunch we continued up the West Coast to our B and B Hale Maluhia Country Inn. Our room was the Japanese Tea House.  It is an octagonal room with shoji screens all around and the bath had a lovely open shower and soaking tub. It had all seen better days and will again as they complete recovery from a major rain storm a year ago. I would note that backing into the driveway is not for the faint of heart.  It feels like a 20% grade around a 90 degree curve. I did it a couple of times, but not in the dark. Going in forward would not be a good idea as it would require backing into traffic coming around a tight U turn. 
We took two major drives from there. First we drove to the north shore visiting beaches and towns along the way. We drove up the dry side and returned along the lush higher inland road.  The next day we elected to drive to the peak of Mauna Kea where there are several famous astronomical observatories. The road is limited to 4wd vehicles.  This is not so much due to its being a rough road as it is for the need to maintain control while descending the 20% plus or minus grade on dirt. 

We returned to the room for a rest and then had dinner at Jackie Rey. It was delightful.  They had a lovely mushroom dish for Carol and I had to have the Ono, a local delicacy white fish.  Coconut Ice cream was too great a temptation and it went fine with an excellent cup of Kona coffee. At $40 to $50 a pound I will not be buying it for regular use. My excellent Costa Rican or Tanzania peaberry are really very good for a quarter of the price. 
We flew on to Maui this afternoon and picked up our rental for the drive to Lahaina from Bio-beetle Rental. The car is a 10 year old Jeep Patriot that had been modified to run on 100% bio fuel.  The car has been hard used in over 97000 miles of rental service! 
We arrived at Chris’ apartment – Air BnB – and we were warmly greeted and given the run of the place.  

Oahu and Big Island

Hilton Hawaiian Village is a wonderful old resort. It has so much that it takes real effort to leave. Well in advance we had planned two excursions.  The first was to Doris Duke’s home, Shangi La. If you don’t know,  Doris Duke came into her fortune at age 12. Her parents died and she was the soul heir to Duke Energy for one. She fell in love with Islamic art and Hawaii at about the same time.  The house, which she continued to update as late as 1992, is a wonderful collection of designs and items.  It is worth the trip if you will be in Honolulu.  The other stop was Pearl Harbor, the Arizona Memorial :

I know this is not the “expected” view, but you can get that on line.  Even almost 75 years later it is moving to watch the film shot during and after the attack. To stand above the remains of the men of the Arizona. 
We met Tolly and Todd our first night there,  these men were students of Carol’s when she was teaching photography.  Through the magic of email and facebook they have stayed in touch. Todd is a concierge at Hilton Hawaiian Village and one day was actually working on the Rainbow Tower where we were staying,  there are 7 towers! (Correct me if I’m wrong Todd). On Sunday when neither was working and we had no plans they took us for a drive around North Shore. Along the way we had fresh grilled chicken in a roadside barbecue, a chilled coconut from which we drank the milk and then had the shell cracked so we could eat the meat. I seem to remember we stopped for lunch, too and then we had to try a special shaved ice. I was delighted to gain 2 pounds all at once 🙂
On to Big Island, formally known as Hawaii Island. We are staying in Volcano House,  constructed in 1931 to replace the 3rd in a line of hotels here.  This hotel has the distinction of being the only hotel built inside the caldera of an active volcano. From most anyplace in the hotel it’s possible to watch the eruption that has continued since 2008. 
 
I’m not actually sure where this was taken,  either from the hotel grounds or from Jaggar Museum which is even closer to the crater.  There we met Frank Truesdale,  PhD to whom we were introduced by Niece Daisy who studied with him. Frank gave us a wonderful tour of the externals that any tourist can see and then we were introduced to the monitors watching every move of the Earth in the area to better understand what is happening and to hope to save lives by predicting major events.  Ultimately be took us up to the volcano Observatory above the roof of the museum with viwes to the floor of the crater.  The inner crater happened to be quite active and we could see the lava lake over the rim and watch it spatter above the rim. 
After a beer at the nearby military recreational facility we parted.  We now have plans to have dinner with Frank and his wife on Friday (that’s tomorrow as I write). Today we drove South and West toward South Point, the southernmost point of land in the US! Along the way we stopped at Punalu’u Black Sand beach where we didn’t see turtles 🙁 We did get to Green Sand Beach, one of only two in the world. 
 
We did make it to the southermost point of land

 More importantly we made it to

We bought take away lunch there and stopped back for ice cream on our way back to the hotel.  We will drive by there again on Saturday.
There is more to tell, but I am tired and I suspect you, my readers,  must be too. 

Elevator buttons

We are at Hilton Hawaiian Village – Rainbow Tower, having flown in from Sydney two days ago.

Hilton has elevated the frustrating of small boys to a high level.  Every small boy I have known (no small girls in our life) must push the floor button on the elevator.  These elevators have no buttons in the car! There is a panel on the lobby wall where one enters the destination floor and the appropriate elevator car is illuminted. You enter the car and then exit when your destination is reached with an announcement. Not only small boys find this frustrating. We are all used to entering an open elevator car and THEN pressing the desired floor. I just rode up with two small boys who found this completely unsatisfying.  They screamed through four floors wanting to push the nonexistent button, only to resume screaming when the grandfather, trying to change the subject, asked who would open the door to the room.

Ah, small boys, we survived or own two and their five, and now everyone else’s.  It’s a wonder they are permitted to live to manhood.

Outback

Alice Springs is a cool little town.  With decent hotels, dining,  art and a fine hospital. From here there is 1,500 kilometers North to Darwin and a like distance South to Adelaide. Those roads are not interstates with towns and services.  In some cases they may not be paved all the way.  Carry the fuel you need and spares to repair flats and anything else that might break.  For good measure carry a satellite phone as cell service quits at the edge of town. Our busses had satellite phones mounted by the driver.

That is the Gap between East and West McDonnell ranges

The Todd River with puddles from recent rain

Yes it rained on us in Alice Springs and it was cool, mid 70’s. They promised us the river would flow if we had 4 or 5 days of heavy rain. The good news was we did not see it flow. 
We drove to Uluru (Ayers Rock) In the rain. Sections of the road were flooded, but not to exceed our bus’s capability of 300 millimeters so we pressed on through 600 kilometers of ever changing nothing. Finally Mt Connell came into view,  it is also known as false Uluru or “fooluru” according to John, our driver guide. It looks like the Rock but there is still 60 km to go. 
We arrived at Sails in the Desert, our hotel, to find our evenings plans had been washed out,  no dinner under the stars and the roads were impassable and the grounds a marsh. Instead we had a magnificent buffet dinner in the dining room. 
5:45 wakeup to see Sunrise light the rock was not a wash out, but the clouds lingered and this is what we saw:

Not the image we were looking for 🙁

After a day driving around the Rock and various interesting stops we drove to the “sunset viewing area” where our hotel had set up a table with snacks and champaign.  We waited under clear skies for the sunset and here is one of don’t ask how many pictures I took on each camera.  This is from the phone:
It is not enhanced or fiddled with,  if anything it is not quite as brilliant as it appeared to the eye. OMG! 
Oh, the hospital.  Carol had a bad cough and her hip was bothering her,  a lot. So we made it to a clinic which assured her the was nothing broken and that her cold seemed as if it would resolve itself.  They arranged for an xray of the pelvic area to be sure there was nothing broken. We found our way to a modern hospital right next to the Royal Flying Doctors visitor center.  Medicine in the outback is not taken lightly. It can be a thousand kilometers over bad or no road to get medical help.  Without the Royal Flying Medical Doctors people in the outback would be in a bad way.  The outcome for Carol was as expected. We have walked a lot today 🙂
Tomorrow we fly back to Sydney and Friday onward to Hawaii.

Full days

To get Wednesday straight.  We started with a bus tour of the CBD (Central Business District for the acronym adverse) that wound up at Circular Quay where we boarded a very large cruise boat to complete the city tour from the water,  with a lovely (overwhelming) buffet lunch.  We passed under Sydney Harbor Bridge a couple of times and I got my binoculars out to ogle the climbers on the top of the bridge.

After our tour of the Sydney Opera House we bused back to the hotel for a two hour break.  We caught a cab back to the Opera House for the 6:30 performance by the Sydney Symphony of the aforementioned Leningrad Symphony by Shostikovich. They opened with a world premier of a Cello concerto follwed by a performance of  a cello piece by Tchaikovski. The cellist then played an encore including vocalizations, hammering on and other methods of achieving sound not normally associated with concert performance on the cello. It was marvelous and the standing ovation was well earned.  Following intermission the Orchestra doubled in size for the Leningrad.  90 minutes later I felt I had survived the siege on Leningrad.  The performance was wonderful,  I do not remember ever hearing a live performance,  RPO must have performed it in a moment of feeling rich. We walked back to the hotel stopping for a snack on the Quay.
 We were preparing for the morning climb of the Bridge. The are plenty of superlatives, all available on bridgeclimb.com. There will be pictures, later. I had to buy them on a thumb drive.  We were not permitted to have anything with us that could fall or be dropped.  We were provided hats with clips to lanyards to the provided jump suits.  There were lanyards for glasses, even a handkerchief with clip was proved and a fleece in a bag clipped to the safety belt in such a manner it could be extracted and worn without unclipping it. We were to spend almost 2 hours directly above the flow of traffic,  a long way above. For all the nervousness the climb was essentially a long walk along a narrow catwalk,  we were harnessed and locked into our safety line already.  Then we climbed a series of ladders,  passing through the traffic deck between lanes 5 and 6 in a caged safety Island. Eventually we gained the top arch and began a long climb to the midpoint.  None of the climbing was particularly strenuous and there were many pauses as our guide related the history of the construction and we waited for the group ahead to move on. We were working with a 10 minute separation.  At the mid point we crossed the top center beam to the west side of the bridge to begin our descent. Total time from check in to tossing the used jump suit down the laundry chute was just over three hours. We would recommend that any able person who can climb two stories without straining should do this for the once in lifetime experience.

We walked back to our hotel and took a break to recover from the physical and nervous energy we had spent.  Friday we got up early and flew,  and flew,  to Alice Springs.  Near the middle of no place in the Outback. I’ll write about that in another post.

Sydney Opera House, not just a tour

Today we tour the famous Opera House.  Tonight we attend a performance of the Leningrad Philharmonic playing Shostikovich and Tchaikovski. Since we didn’t have our schedule or theirs until yesterday we had to take what seats that were available.  Last row. There were seats in the first row but apparently the stage is quite high.

More tomorrow.

Seeing the World/Seeing North America