The change from Bangkok is much greater than I expected.  First the weather is much cooler.  Second,  although Hanoi is large at 7 million it does not feel as overwhelming as Bangkok.  On the other hand the motor bikes seem to fill every spot between the buildings.  They seem to flow like water around obstructions like pedestrians. Crossing the street is a matter of picking a moment when the nearest approaching bike will have a chance to adjust his course to avoid you and then just walking through the flow at a steady pace. The steady pace is very important as it gives everyone a chance to plan on where you will be when they get there.  Our Tour Leader,  An, walked sixteen of us through heavy traffic last night with no problem. The pace is brisk but does not feel obsessive and people seem to be generally courteous. We have been warned of noise level but have not found ourselves disturbed by it.  Adjusting to yet another currency,  the Vietnam Dong,  is a bit of a trial.  It has made me a millionaire in my pocket instantly.  The simple conversion Dong to dollar is shift the decimal point 4 to the left and divide by 2. Or $1 = 20000 dong! There are lots of bills with many 0s.

We started today at the Mausoleum for Ho Chi Minh. We were lined up single file no bags or visible cameras and escorted a short distance to the beginning of the walk parallel to the building.  Then we were instructed to form a double file along the railing. A small group of Korean business men was lead past us and they set a wreath at the entrance to the Masoleum.  After they entered, we were instructed to follow, no sunglasses,  no hats and no talking.  We solemnly climbed the stairs on the red carpet and filed into the room where the embalmed body lies in state. He looks quite good for one who has been dead since 1969. So far this trip we have walked by the mausoleums for Lenin in Moscow and Mao in Beijing.  This is the first one we have entered.  To complete the cycle of embalmed communist leaders we only need to wait for Fidel Castro to join the ranks. After this visit we toured the grounds of the Vietnam president’s house,  the building where Ho spent the later 50s and the stilt house built for him of Rosewood on the same grounds.  He lived in that from 58 to his death in 69. There is no toilet in the house,  he said he could walk and felt it spoiled the clean design of the home.  Also there is a very strong bunker a few steps from the building used whenever our bombers were overhead.

After a lovely lunch we went to the Museum of Vietnam Ethnology. Here we learned much about the ethnic make up of Vietnam.  The Viet makeup 80% of the population which consist of 54 ethnic groups. We are most familiar with the Hmong from the northern mountain country and a broad grouping called montagnards consisting of them and other neighboring groups.  The museum is very well done and if  we had extra days we might choose to go back to spend more time.  It won’t happen this trip as we have much more to see and do.

Not much to talk about.  We had an uneventful flight from Chiang Mae to Bangkok once we got through the airport hassle.  Nok Air added a new twist to passenger abuse.  They changed the weight allowance per person from 44 pounds to 33 pounds. This put us 22 pounds overweight for a charge of about $75. Since OAT had not warned us about this,  Lucky had them book us as a group and we all fell under the group allowance. We had no idea what airline we were traveling on since this was all booked by OAT. No way we could have adjusted our weight mid tour or gotten down to 33 pounds for our travel.  I was so flustered, having been the first to learn this,  I forgot about my pocket knife, which is now in the great airline pocket knife bin in the sky 🙁 Guess I’ll have to buy a new one.

Today was two more Buddahs and a return to Jim Thompson Villa.  I bought another shirt.  We had already been to the Reclining Buddah but not to the Golden Buddah,  yup,  its big and it is very gold actually reputed to be 5 tons of gold. I won’t argue.  Tonight is farewell dinner for this part of the trip.  We say good bye to Lucky and tomorrow we fly to Vietnam and meet An.

Music: I’m not sure what my expectations for hotel lobby music were when we arrived in Thailand three weeks ago before Thanksgiving,  but I do know they did not include Christmas music,  nor did they include Calypso music from the 50s. Imagine my surprise when I heard Jingle Bells, in Thai!  coming over the speakers at Pantip Suite in Bangkok.  This was followed by a collection of some of the worst old songs from the 50s and 60s repeated on a loop of maybe 6 numbers.  It was enough to send me out of the lobby where the only good wifi connection was available. Later we were in a dinner place and I started listening to the “background” and realized the song was “Day O” as sung by Harry Bellefonte when we were in high school. I assumed this a freak occurrence and someone had made a mistake in setting up the mix,  but numbers from the era continued for the duration of dinner.  There was nothing in the least Caribbean in the setting in Bangkok.  Okay, it was an anomaly,  wrong! At dinner in Golden Pines (!) In Chang Rei in the far north of Thailand the live performers during dinner moved into a set of the same Calypso standards.  However we have had very little Christmas music in the north.  I haven’t tried to track down the reason for the apparent love of Calypso in northern Thailand.

Elephants: these wonderful animals are prime movers in this part of the world,  or were until the development of heavy machinery that could cope with the environment.  They are still capable of heavy work,  but we are more likely to see them as tourist attractions. How many of us have seen them in a circus or at a zoo and wanted to get just a little closer? Today we had the opportunity to get as close as we wanted to many elephants.  In Tanzania we stared at them from our safari cars often from just a few feet,  but the rules were clear,  hands in the car,  no touching!  As we entered the MaeTang Elephant Camp this morning,  we walked across a path under a canopy and realized that elephants with tourists in the houdas were coming toward us from the boarding area and there was the mahout sitting on the elephants neck just like in the movies or at the circus.  We walked over to the show area where a show had just completed and found elephants and mahouts lined up with the elephants lifting people on their trunks. Before I knew I was straddling an elephant trunk rising into the air.  After dismounting I offered the elephant 20 Baht (about $. 65) which it accepted gracefully and handed to the mahout. This was repeated with Carol and many others in our group.

After watching them bathe in the river and perform the usual elephant tricks including painting on paper made from their dung, we went to the boarding area and Carol and I soon found ourselves on a padded seat atop an elephant behind the mahout heading out for a ride over the river and through the woods.  Along the way there were places to buy bananas and sugar cane to feed the elephant as he walked without even dismounting. The mahout dismounted twice taking my camera to take pictures of us which I will post some day. We also had the chance to feed bananas and sugar cane to them, well actually hold it up in their presence and be prepared to let go a whole bunch at a time.  One noticed some bananas that were sitting between Carol and me on the bench and reached out to help himself.

Oh, music,  one number had the elephants playing harmonicas with their trunks while dancing to the beat they created.  No recognizable music here,  it must have been local.

We went on from the elephants and lunch to a ride on bamboo rafts down the river, MaeTang, adjacent to the elephant camp.  We saw several other elephant camps along the way and our boatmen had to alter course slightly several times to avoid them as they crossed the river with riders aboard. At one point a baby elephant broke from its herd and ran down to the water edge where it stopped briefly as we floated by.  Behind us it charged on into the water followed by its mother, several other elephants and some excited mahouts.  Our group behind us had quite a show.

We bought some “elephant paper” note pads for gifts.  This paper which is also used for the elephants to paint on is made from elephant dung.  They eat a lot of very coarse fibrous material and their digestive system is relatively inefficient so their dung contains a lot of crushed undigested fiber and with cleaning and other treatment a reasonable quality of paper can be made from it.

We have continued on the bus for a couple of more days. It feels almost like one of our early road trips,  except for the early starts and someone else is driving.  Lucky,  our Tour Leader,  always had his eyes open for interesting stops,  some planned and some just happenstance with a bus driver who is not afraid to block traffic so we can make the stop. We made a stop along the way for “happy room” tour name for toilet break,  and found a great coffee shop.  While some of us enjoyed coffee,  someone else noticed a festival along the lakeshore.  Off we went to explore the festival.  At another happy room stop there was a new temple with a huge reclining  Buddah, only 20 years old,  giving the tour a chance to live up to its name Oh, Another Temple (OAT for those who missed it). I am struggling to remember all the stops. 

Today,  Tuesday the 10th of December as I write,  we stopped to visit several Hill Country tribes. First the Padong known for the women having their necks wrapped in brass coils as well as their ankles and  calfs. They are immigrants from Burma where they are no longer welcome.  Next to them are the Palong whose women have greatly extended ear lobes with open rings inserted. Another nearby tribe wear hats covered with silver baubles. To get to these tribes we road in the back of pickup trucks with bench seating. Although much of this visit felt a bit commercial as other for groups hiked through the forest as well to see these people and all the women had items for sale to augment their living, it is clear that the people are living a modification of their former lifestyle and adapting in small ways to the 21st century. The pickup trucks brought us out of the forest to a filling station where our bus met us and we continued north to The Golden Triangle.  Although celebrated and marked with a golden Buddah this site represents the worst of human nature.  Thailand,  Burma,  and Laos meet on the Mekong River and another smaller river. At the confluence is a delta that is actually an island since the rivers cut it off from Burma.  Here opium dealers gathered to trade opium for gold through the 1970s. Then the area was accessible only by river or 4 wheel drive through the forest. The benches at the view point are stenciled with a note that they are a gift of the US DEA!

Along the way Lucky spotted some rice farmers threshing newly harvested rice using pairs of sticks with a string between them at one end to hold bunches of rice stalks so they could beat them on the ground to free the rice from the stalk.  Naturally we stopped and got down from the bus to photograph this sight.  Within a matter of minutes most of us had to try our hand at the process.  This resulted in much laughter from us and the workers and not a lot of rice being threshed. I am sure my back will be fine in the morning.

We were picked up at the Museum of Opium History in vehicles called “Japanese Water Buffalo” start with what looks like a very large tilling machine,  throw away everything except the engine and Mount that engine sideways in front of a 4 wheeled hand built truck body with steering wheel, two speed transmission and no springs. Climb into the back on padded (Thank G-d) benches and set off through back roads through farm land to a restaurant in the valley for lunch.  Great lunch,  Lots of fun.  One of us,  not me, tried his hand at driving. No power steering,  a wicked clutch and the driver was sitting on the gear shift so we were limited to first year. As we road back to our hotel on the bus we were tangled up in a traffic back up caused by an accident.  Lucky jumped down and ran ahead of the bus.  We thought he was trying to find the cause.  As we overtook him he had a bag in his hands,  he had taken advantage of the hold up to buy local pineapples for inclusion in lunch tomorrow.

And so it goes,  we have a couple of hours to ourselves and then off to the local night market and dinner.

Geek time: on our boat ride in Mandalay,  as I mentioned,  we stopped on a sandbar to watch sunset.  After the sun had set there was a very bright star overhead.  I surmised it must be Venus given the brightness and lack of apparent motion.  I wanted to confirm that using Google Sky map. Having no Internet access that seemed unlikely.  Kayw had his smart phone but did not have sky map loaded.  He fiddled for a minute and then said to turn on my wifi and look for “john”.  Sure enough there was  “john” with a strong signal and access through his phone to a data connection.  The bright star was indeed Venus. To my geeky friends and family I am sure this is not surprising.  Even to me,  once I realized what he was doing, this was not particularly surprising,  although given where we were I will admit I was impressed.

I failed to realize how much data I would need to handle with two cameras shooting every day. My tablet cannot handle the uploads and leave me any time to do anything else.  I wanted to at least back up the camera cards so I went to buy a hard disk with sd card input.  The dealers I saw in Hong Kong assured me they were obsolete,  I think that meant they didn’t have any.  They sold me a box that connects to the tablet via wifi and has an sd slot to handle the transfer.  The box connects but doesn’t see my sd card 🙁 It does have a network connection and I was able to plug in a network cable I found in one hotel room and make my own wifi. Hmm, was I pirating someone’s Internet? Nah I was in a hotel and the cable was there even if it was unmarked.

Siam Niramit dinner and show! In Bangkok.  Traffic getting there was so bad we were fearful we would not have time for dinner.  The show was wonderful.  They advertise the largest stage in the world,  there may be some hyperbole, but not much.  And they have performers and support staff over 300.  This does not include two elephants that are not only on stage,  but also on the main cross aisle in the audience!  At one point there are 12 actors flying above the stage and where did that river on the lip of the stage come from a third of the way into the show.  Absolutely worth going to at least once.  There is so much happening that going a second time would be worthwhile.

We left Bangkok by bus the next morning for a two night overnight in Hintok River Camp along the River Kwai. While there we walked across The Bridge and road a train over it as well.  Then we hiked through Hellfire Pass.  This is a 4 kilometer stretch of 400 kilometers of rail built by forced labor over 18 months.  The death rate was one life for every sleeper laid,  well over 200,000 Allied troops and Thai workers died. The famous book and movie embellished the importance of the act of sabotage at the bridge over the river Kwai for dramatic purposes.  The entire story of suffering and repeated sabotage would not make a suspenseful movie.  Hellfire pass was so named because of the torches lit along the cut so work could continue around the clock.  The workers worked as long as 18 hours and had an 8 to 9 kilometer hike through the jungle and over ridges to get to and from their camps. We also had a boat ride on the river Kwai.  We passed floating hotels,  many birds and even working elephants along the way.

The next day brought a long bus ride, 500 kilometers,  that was broken up with stops every couple of hours and another boat ride,  this time on a rice barge where lunch was served.  After a one night stop we were off again. We spent much of the morning in Sukhothai, the first capital of what was to become Thailand dating to the 1200s.  The temple complex is very elaborate and has hints of Angkor Wat and of Hindu places we have visited as well as signs of Portuguese presence in the area. After lunch we boarded the bus for a 180 kilometer run to the Chang Rai area. We stopped along the way to watch rice harvesters,  chopstick makers and finally Indigo dyers. Carol found a couple of lovely shirts to buy,  that fit!

That sort of catches me up.  I’ve ignored some fun in Bangkok, but we will be back there in 6 days which I am sure will pass in a flash. I ought to describe our bus,  especially for my RV it friends.  It is about 36 to 38 feet long and seems to be over 8 feet wide.  The height is all of 13’6″ and it has a great turning radius.  The sides are well battered from encounters with anything that comes near the roadway and the occasional taxi.  The top deck has seating for over 30 although we are 16 plus a guide and two staff,  plus driver and assistant.  The bottom deck, or basement,  houses luggage storage, a toilet and sleeping quarters for driver and assistant. We make u turns with abandon and it seems that red lights are considered a suggestion,  or at best a recommendation if convenient.

Another early wakeup tomorrow,  on the bus by 7:30 AM which means 5:45 wakeup assuming I shower in the next 15 minutes.   Good night.

Yet another river boat ride,  seven miles up river to an unfinished Palace from late 1700s. The king died before it got above the first terrace which is 162 feet high.  The design height was over 500 feet. Successor kings stopped work on it because the horoscope said  finishing it would be bad luck.  The pedestal is marked with large cracks from two earthquakes,  the most recent in 2009. Standing near the unfinished Palace is a beam supporting what is reputed to be the second largest bell in the world. Unlike the largest bell which we saw in Moscow this one is not cracked and is mounted so it can be rung with sticks which are provided. Just across the road from the bell is a home for retired people who do not have family to live with.  We visited and talked with several of the ladies who seemed quite happy,  of course being Burmese they seem to have perpetual smiles. 

The night before and there was a street festival near the hotel. Carol and I walked over to see what it was all about. There was food, of course, there was gambling of some sort and there was a stage with live music and animated singing by several singers. The singing was mostly in Burmese, but did not seem to be classical folk music. Also a group of five young women performed to something that seemed related to Gangnam Style. We interacted with a couple of people with hand gestures since we did not have a language in common. The kids were the most fun as their lack of inhibition let them express themselves with broad gestures.

After the river trip we relaxed for a couple of hours and then drove to see the U Bien footbridge, the longest teak bridge which extends across a lake. The walk felt a bit precarious as there are no side rails much of the distance and the bridge deck is made of uneven planks of teak.  Carol and I walked maybe half way across to a stairway down to an island so we could get pictures of sunset through the bridge supports. The picture can be found on Google+

Passing thoughts on motor bikes;  Myanmar is awash in motorbikes outside Yangon where they are banned. We saw 3 and 4 people riding on one bike.  We saw dads riding with mom sitting side saddle holding an infant,  no helmets,  no safety strap just babe in arms.  And once I looked down from our van to see a mom riding side saddle through traffic while nursing and infant,  no pics.  Walking across traffic is frightening.  As our guide Lucky has told us,  in Laos and Burma drive on the right,  in Thailand drive on the left and in Vietnam the are no rules at all,  total chaos.

We are now 16 passengers and our very large bus is threading through roads and traffic I find challenging in a car.  I cannot imagine driving Gee Whiz through Bangkok. Adjusting to such a large group will take some doing although they all seem very nice and are seasoned travelers.  We have been spoiled by being in two different foursomes for two weeks.

Where was I? Where am I? As we drove from the Bagan airport after landing at about 8 AM we began to see temples and stupas.  Hollow pagodas with large Buddah statues are temples and solid stupas house Buddah artifacts.  The structures are as small as 10 feet high and as high as 60 meters some sitting on mountain tops many just jammed in side by side.  Even looking out of our room there are several in view.   The “Oh wow” factor had not faded even after almost two days.

Many of the more than 2,500 temples in Bagan have been reconstructed.  In the 11 th century the kings built over 5,000 in this area.  Kublah Kahn destroyed all the wooden structures and damaged many brick and stone structures.  An earthquake in 2006 damaged and destroyed many of those remaining. Kyaw (the closest I can come in English is Joe but sound “j” as ch and add a nasal “w”to the end) explains that Buddhists seeking merit in this life for their next turn on the wheel contribute large sums to restoring and beautifying the shrines. He is setting aside 10% (a familiar number) to do such a restoration himself.

Naturally we climbed the highest Pagoda to survey the countryside. We were assaulted by vendors at every turn;  “I make very good price” “you want postcard” “maybe later” with whatever goods being offered thrust into our face or hand. When we got to that first Pagoda we had it to ourselves, plus vendors,  for 10 minutes then the bike tours and busses began to arrive and the place was soon overrun and we worked our way down and out. We also visited the Golden Temple with its gold leaf dome and four grand entrance stairs passing through grand shrines from the four points of the compass. After lunch and a break we resumed touring with a temple with four huge Buddahs facing the cardinal points.  The two originals from the 11 th century have a unique facial aspect when view from where the high and mighty would stand or kneel they are serene but unsmiling. When viewed from further back, where ordinary folk would stand they offer a broad smile.  Draw your own conclusions. We finally stopped at a laquerware shop. Here we learned that this is a very different business than we saw in China. The bowls are made of bamboo or bamboo and horsehair and many coats of natural laquer, 24 in all, are applied with fingers to give the item strength and depth.  Adornment is done by engraving  filling with natural colors. We did buy a small momento. We concluded the touring day with a  boat ride on the Irawaddy River.  We stopped on a sandbar to view sunset which took place behind heavy clouds. We returned to the landing near our hotel,  the Aye Yar River View,  and the van took us to BBB for a Western dinner.

Today,  Friday,  we got up at 5 to catch our pickup for Balloons over Bagan.  By 6:15 we were airborne in one of 8 16 passenger balloons to drift over the temple area and catch the highest overview perspective available,  add some more oh wows! The hour flew by and soon we were landing in a cluster of balloons.  Indeed we were so close that one balloon envelope collided with another on the ground reducing speeding enough in the process to make a perfect landing.  Another had to leapfrog the landing zone and catch another with 2 other balloons. One other incident,  a passenger in our balloon fainted shortly after lift off,  her companions with guidance from the pilot revived her and we continued on without a hitch.  We returned to the hotel for breakfast and shortly took off for further touring in horse carts.  Carol was a bit under the weather so when I took the reins she complained about the speed and her seat in the back.  I gave up the drivers seat and the reins.  We made several stops finally shifting to the van for a final stop at a shop that harvests palm sap for sugar which is made into candy much like maple sugar and also encouraged to ferment and then distilled in the most primitive still I’ve ever seen.  The ferment is placed in a jug on a fire,  the jug has a side arm that has a metal deflector facing into it.  A large metal bowl filed with cool water is placed on top and the distillate collects on the bowl and drops onto the deflector which leads it out the side arm into a bottle.  It is surprisingly good given its lack of age.

We decided not to go out on the afternoon’s optional tour, museum,  village,  shopping and dinner did not appeal in any event.  While Carol slept I wrote the above and did some reading.  Late afternoon we both had head and shoulder massages.  Carol really perked up so after a while we headed out to dinner at a vegetarian restaurant called Moon that had been recommended by our balloon pilot,  Clive.  This involved walking off the pretty stone driveway of the hotel to the city road that leads up to it and hiring a horse cart for the round trip.  We had a bit of a wait while the driver harnessed his horse then a 10 minute ride to the restaurant also on a dirt road. The round trip cost $6.00 actually 6, 000 kyat (say chat). Dinner was a delight and the ride under a starry night sky with the top off the cart was very pleasant.

I am finishing this off in Mandalay at the Mandalay Hill Hotel.  I do love to write that name.  Mandalay for comparison, is a city of 7 million versus Bagan,  a cluster of villages home to about 100,000,

The British couldn’t pronounce Yangon so the spelt it how it sounded to them,  Rangoon.  Burmese People was too long as a translation of Myanmar so they changed the name to Burma.  And so it goes.  The “ugly Brits” preceded the ugly American by a century in making things sound their way.  Today we are struggling with the Burmese people’s pronounciation of English and we plan on doing so for the rest of the week. 

Everyone has a smile,  except for the immigration officer who snatched my passport out of my hand and practically threw it back at me after prolonged study. Traffic is insane.  They drive on the right,  sort of,  but most of the vehicles have right hand drive,  steering wheel on the right. We haven’t walked unescorted yet,  but I fear for my life and sanity when I try.  Private cars have only been permitted for a decade and no allowance had been made for parking much less highway space. Thus it seems half the cars are in continousl circulation looking for a parking place.  Everything moves a walking pace,  but at least the interior of our tour van is  air conditioned.

We started our tour from the airport with a visit to the Reclining Bhudda, I know we just saw one in Bangkok a couple of days ago,  this one is different,  much bigger,  68 meters head to toe. Also less gold and more colorful.  This one replaces an ugly predecessor that was neglected and destroyed by the environment.  Then we went shopping in the market,  one name of the market is Aun Saun Market. To much good stuff and a bit travel weary we bought nothing.  I do want a loungy, no idea how to spell it, it is a skirt like wrap worn by most Burmese men. It looks very comfortable for this climate and would make a nice table cloth when I decide not to wear it.

The meals have been wonderful.  Myanmar curries are quite varied and subtle in their shadings.  Many have strong spice heat with underlying flavor notes that ride over (under?) the heat. We took a meal off and had counter for in the restaurant lobby,  curried chicken stuffed in a pastry. Very nice.  Oh yes the hotel,  we are staying at the Chatrium, where Hilary stayed when she called on Myanmar as Secretary of State.  Obama is reported to have complained that on his visit here he didn’t stay long enough to use the hotel.  Looking out my window as I write I see the staff setting up the grounds around the pool deck and every place else for a wedding party of 900 guests!  It is hard to find anything to complain about.  The hotel is definitely at the top of the class of OAT hotels, the guide is wonderful even if this is his first OAT tour.  Having only four of us on the tour really is beyond expectation. Heddy and Carol (her name is Carol Ann) seem quit compatible and good travel companions.  We’ll know better tomorrow as it appears we need to be at the airport at 5 AM give or take. At least traffic should be light,  I hope.

We are watching the news from Ukraine where we started this extravaganza with some horror. Looking at the news from Bangkok, which we left 1 day ago, is scary,  especially since we need to go through there two more times,  in five days and again on December 31 on our way to the US.

Got off the plane in Bangkok alone,  just the two of us,  no for leader, no group,  oops, where is our hotel transfer? After some searching we located an OAT representative who got us a porter and a car to Pantip Suites in central Bangkok.  Note to Dan and Malena: that is Pantip not Pantop. When we walked into our suite I was sure they had made a mistake.  The livingroom/kitchen is about 30’x 20′ and the bedroom is about the same square footage. All of this on the 24th floor overlooking central Bangkok.  We have learned that this condo/hotel was built before the 2008 recession and our “room” was built as a condo.  Very nice quarters indeed especially since our next stop will include a stay in a tent. The rest of our group is two women due to arrive late today in time to leave for Myanmar/Burma on a 9 AM flight tomorrow necessitating leaving the hotel at 6 AM 🙁

Our explorations have been a bit limited as we have other things to do.  Our first day we met Lucky,  our guide for the Thai portion of the trip and got oriented with map and coffee to what to do in Bangkok. That afternoon we set off by cab for the pier on the river where all boat tours seem to start.  We boarded a free shuttle to Aseatique, a recently developed shopping/entertainment/dining area in a former warehouse port area.  It also houses a very large Ferris wheel, much like the London Eye. We shopped,  bought a small suitcase to store our cold weather clothes here in Bangkok for pickup when we return on Dec 31 on our way to the states.  This will lighten our luggage enough to get us well under the 44 lb limit which we crossed as we left Russia. We rode the Ferris wheel,  we dined at Baan Khanitha right on the boardwalk, would recommend it to any visitor to the area. We took a tuktuk back to the hotel for an outrageous overcharge of 200 baht ($6.25) it only cost 72 baht to get there by cab, but that was daytime.

Sunday we loafed about in the morning before setting out for Jim Thompson’s villa. I won’t tell his entire story here. He was an adventurer who fell in love with Thailand in the 50’s and settled here and developed the silk industry. He was very successful, unmarried with no children when at age 61, while visiting a friend in the country he went out for a short  walk and was never seen or heard from again. His collections of local art and artifacts have been retained in the original villa and are a must see. The shops, both at the villa and nearby are wonderful.

After some time at the hotel to relax, we set out for the Night Market, not far from the villa. This was very interesting. Not wanting to walk to the train after dark we took a cab from tne hotel to Silom Rd near the intersection of Patpong where the market is. We stopped in at the Jim Thompson store and enjoyed looking at many things we don’t really need. Then we start walking toward the market, a side trip down a brighly lit street found us surrounded by “girls” many in uniform outfits that barely covered. This long block was a major redlight district and we beat feet back to Silom once we realized where we were. We found our way to Patapong and began to check out the merchandise,  it was lower quality than Aseatique but much higher than Siem Reap.  We were looking to the side of the road for a restaurant and noted that there were  many sex shows here too. Every other doorway gave a clear view of scantily clad pole dancers. Ignoring this to the extent possible we settled on TipTop Restaurant which offered a reasonable menu with an understanding of the needs for vegetarian! Carol produced her note that says in Thai that she eats no meat, fish, chicken and the hostess made it clear she understood. After a bit more walking we engaged a cab for 200 baht to take us back to the hotel.

Walking in Bangkok: traffic here drives on the left, remember to look right before stepping into the street, look left too as a motorbike could be coming from most anyplace, what rules? The sidewalk on many of the streets around our hotel are narrow, nonexistent even. Most are single file, there is no curb, and powerpoles and other sign posts force you into the street. We have learned to walk on the right facing traffic, at least you can see the motorbike that is using the walkway to pass a car! To cross the street step out with hand firmly extended toward oncoming traffic, they will adjust their speed and position to miss you, most of the time, be prepared to alter course if they don’t. So far we are unwilling to do this after dark.

Yet another place we’ve read about,  seen news about and never quite dared to dream of visiting.  Yet another killing field,  this one marked with the bones of many of the deceased in a stupa for all to see. This is a country where we never quite knew who were the good guys and who the bad.  Prince Sihanuk seemed to be unable to decide either and in his desire to stay neutral he caused as much misery as he wanted to prevent. Khimer Rouge v the government forces.  Pol Pot v everyone.  As we repeatedly learned,  independence is only 15 years old.  People are killed and maimed by leftover land mines every day.  Unexploded munitions are rusting in farmers fields waiting for inadvertent contact to ruin another life. On the streets of Siem Reap the more visible hazard is traffic gone wild.  There are five traffic lights in the city and drivers consider them a recommendation not a requirement.  Stop signs seem to be totally ignored.  The approved method for entering traffic flow is to keep moving assuming there will be an opening when you get there.  It seems to work, mostly. Traffic is a mix of tour busses and vans,  motor bikes in the 100 cc range and tuk tuks – a motor bike with a hitch in the middle of the seat pulling a cart.  The cart can be for passengers or for cargo.  At least traffic generally flows and distances are minimal compared to China.  Our hotel is in walking distance of central Siem Reap and only about 5 kilometers to Angkor Wat, the main tourist attraction. 

I suppose I could regale with details about the sites we’ve seen from Angkor Wat to the “ladies temple” and several more temples including the one where Tomb Raiders was shot with trees draped over the walls. Maybe I’ll get back to that.  We have experienced a couple of new modes of transport including a long ride in a long tail boat on Ton Le sap,  the largest freshwater Lake in Asia and a ride in a cart drawn by water buffalo. The cart is as what one would imagine with no suspension and the track was not smoothed for us.  Since we were sitting on mats in the carts,  we were all grateful when we reached the end of the ride.

Food varieties became another significant adventure.  On the day we visited Angkor Wat, we went in the morning which is not the best time for photography since this temple faces West unlike all other temples and the view was into the sun.  The reason for doing this was to face smaller crowd. It worked, the crowds were large but manageable.  Later in the day as sunset approached, we returned to see the facade lit by the setting sun.  Seong, our tour leader arranged snacks and drinks for us.  The Cambodian wine, called Wrestler,  was not great but at a fortified 20% alcohol I was able to drink some of it.  The snacks included silk worms, snake jerky and waterbuffalo jerky as well as frog legs. I tried it all to Carol’s distaste.  That was just the beginning as it turned out.  The next day,  today as I write,  we stopped along the road to Ton Le Sap to sample deep fried crickets,  grasshoppers,  and rice frogs (maybe we had the silkworms today not yesterday). Once we got on the lake John, the other guy in our touring foursome, continued to pester Seong about findng him a live snake. At the floating village, we indeed found a live water snake and Seong handed it to John.  A bit later Seong escorted us to a table and served us a lovely soup with water snake in it.  Carol absented herself while the rest of us tucked in and tried it. The skin was too tough to eat so we peeled it off and sucked the meat off the spine. It wasn’t bad,  but I won’t go looking for it either. Although we leave Cambodia in the morning,  I am sure we will have more surprises as we go to Thailand,  Myanmar and Vietnam through the month of December.