All posts by Paul Goldberg

XRIJF Day 5

Past the midpoint already. It’s blazing. Of course having Avi along has added a whole different aspect to our own take on the music. He is a discerning listener and is not shy about telling us that he has had enough of a performer or that we really ought to stay for one more number. We all went to the Youth Workshop with Tommy Smith. OMG I got a whole new outlook on the art of jazz improv. I hope Avi is able to take away some of what he learned to develop his own taste and performance.

At 4 we went on to the Lyric for  Monty Alexander solo piano. He is an old timer and he did not bring anything new to the stage. He did bring energy, humor and solid performance. I must admit I caught up on some shuteye. We rolled out of there, the most easterly venue of the Fest, headed for Harro East, the most westerly venue of the Fest, not counting the Jam Session. There we caught Bill Evans Band Featuring Tommy Smith. Two masters of improv on the sax plus three other masters covering guitar, bass and drums. The place rocked! We were glued to the stage.  We stayed for the encore. The contest for best of the best now has three leaders, Add in Miguel Zenon and Marquis Hill and it is all great.

From there we headed north to Xerox Hall, we seemed to be working the edges of the map, for Kendrick Scott, Oracle. I was having a heard time understanding the reading. There was a fascinating piece using Obama’s voice and “tapes” from a police shooting of a black man together with drum solo. It was strong and political, not sure how it fit as Jazz, but it certainly was performance. We moved on before the set was over to give a listen to Floating Point at Lutheran Church. This was esoteric, a hybrid of classical and jazz. None of us could get into it. As a standalone set it might have worked for me, but with so much else around I was lost and we three agreed to move on after two numbers.

The next move was to Christ Church for Made in the UK, David Higgins and Atlantic Bridge Quartet. For a UK group it was made up of a French Bassist, an Italian Drummer and an American pianist along with Higgins, the Londoner and leader on Sax. We got in on time for the beginning and stayed on through the “one more piece.” I felt they were a bit too up tight and tied into their charts. Only at the end did Higgins seemed to move away from the chart and let loose with some imagination.

We wanted to hear Vanessa Rubin at Max, but by the time we got there the doors were closed and there was a substantial line waiting for early departures to make room. We headed instead to the Big Tent for something really, really completely different, Hot Club of Cowtown called themselves Western Swing. There was nothing of Jazz in the trio of violin (maybe fiddle would be a better term) guitar and bass. Their energy level was up in the stratosphere and we rocked right through the entire performance. The Gypsy violin piece was incredible and so was most of what they did. and it was Carol’s first choice. We trundled over to the Jam Session to find they had moved out of the too large room into the too small adjacent bar. We were back to no room to sit and limited air to breath. Also the noise level makes it hard to hear the performers. After an hour we called it a night.

Todays plan is being formed as I write 🙂 We will go over to the Youth Workshop at 1 and then head over to Lyric where Tommy Smith will take the stage solo. Can’t wait to hear him making it up as he goes along. Then on to Max for Shauli Einav Quartet. Marcia Ball at Harro and/or Electric Kif at Squeezers and wrap with Bobby Militello at Montage. If we don’t get into Max for 6:15, we may just lineup to be sure to hear Einav at his 10 PM show at Max.

XRIJF Day 4

and we had a very active day with grandson Avi on the street. We really wanted to hear Miguel Zenon at Kilbourn. He is reputed to be among the top saxophonists around. We got in line to get our wristbands at 3:30 figuring this would give us plenty of time to roam. Got “banded” at a bit after 4 and wandered down to the Jazz Street Stage for Brockport High Jazz Band starting at 4:30. Along about 5:15 we got in the first group line in the Eastman School Lobby to get in to the 6 PM show. Not sure we gained much with this new wrist band thing. We did get great seats in the 3rd row center and Zenon came on with a great group Read Ron Netsky in City for details. The group hit the stage playing and didn’t take a break to introduce themselves until just before the last number. We were breathless. We stayed for the encore, of course!

Moved on to a brief stop on Main St to eat some food, I had the Blackened Chicken Louisianan again, way spicy! Then on to Lutheran Church of the Reformation for Ikonostasis . For the name alone we had to check it out. If it doesn’t mean anything to you, check out Greek Orthodox Churches, hearing a group with that name in a Lutheran Church was just a bit too much to miss. Again Ron – see link above – reviewed the group. I was intrigued with the performance with Moog Synthesizer and sax and drums, but not enough to stay on. We agreed to move on halfway through and head over to Harro East for Conrad Herwig’s Latin Side. We got there for the last two numbers and are very glad we did. The combo with Trumpet, Trombone and Sax in front of Piano, Base, Drum kit and hand drums was dynamite and several people told us we had caught the best of the act. We stayed for “one more number” and then moved heading for. . .

Hatch where Harold Danko was having a great time on the piano. Again we caught the last two numbers and stayed for “just one more” which was actually a medley of three numbers Danko had written. As we drifted out of that hall we really wanted to hear Marquis Hill Blacktet at Max. Even though it was late on a chill and drizzling Monday there was a line forming at a bit after 9 PM so we decided to get in line to be sure of getting in. Leaving Carol to hold our place, Avi and I went in search of something to satisfy a teenage vegetarian someplace on the street. He found a cheese pizza slice and I got some popcorn to get back in line with. As soon as we got there the line moved and we got a nice table second row a bit off to the left. Hill was incredible on the trumpet just wonderful to listen to. The sax player Josh Johnson(?) was also phenomenal read Frank De Blase in City for more. We stayed to the end and then moved out. We dropped Carol off at the apartment, well a block from the door, and Avi and I headed up to the Jam.

When we got there Luis Perdomo from the Zenon group was at the keyboard. It is always nice to see the performers show up for the Jam. They took a break and I took the opportunity to introduce Avi to Bob Sneider who has managed the Jam from its inception. We left a bit early, about midnight, so Avi could get some rest and be up for the Saxophone Workshop for Youth at 1 PM.

For sure we will start out tonight at Harro East where Bill Evans Band Featuring Tommy Smith will be playing. Tommy Smith is giving the Workshop at 1. From there Kevin Scott Oracle at Xerox then David O’Higgins Atlantic Bridge Quartet at Christ Church and wrap it up with Vanessa Rubin at Max before heading over to the Jam. Still have to figure out where and when we will eat and what else we might fall into. I’ve worked this out with Avi, hope Carol approves!

XRIJF Day 3

Avi (grandson from LA) has joined us. I will save my Delta Passenger Service rant for another day. He is here and we managed to hit the street by 7:30 for Day 3 – his Day 1!
We started at the Merchandise Tent to outfit Avi with a hoody to keep him warm on these sort of chilly evenings, I just had to buy a new Jazz Fest shirt for me too. Then we moved out onto Jazz Street and picked up some food and waited out the rain in Java’s then when it had abated we moved out to here Fred Costello and an assortment of sidemen on the City of Rochester Jazz Street Stage. It was fun and the crowd continued to grow as the rain seemed to be staying away. After a bit we wandered over to Jimmie Highsmith at the Avangrid Foundation tent. That kept our attention for 5 minutes, back to Costello and friends.

We decided to walk down to The Little for Adam Kolker Trio, some serious sax. After a wait in line we entered and found the theater only about half full. I went to use the restroom and found myself staring at a Storage Closet door? We have been going to this theater for 60 years at least, how could they have moved the Men’s Room? Well they did and the new one is fresh and modern and there are no overhead pipes to drip on you, total shock! Back to the show. Ron Netsky’s review of this show is right on with my thoughts. Avi seemed totally aborbed in the music until he started drifting off – he had been awake since 3 AM LA time. He is still asleep as I write. Carol walked backed to the apartment with him and he had some interesting things to say also. I loved the Thelonius Monk numbers as well as their own music.

I stayed on through the encore and then headed back planning to finish up at the Big Tent with Red Hook. I lasted less than 5 minutes and left for Max where Derek Gripper was performing solo on guitar. I was mesmerized and stayed on through the rest of the performance. As appears to be usual at Max this year the stage manager shut the performance down with no encore. Anyone who can sound like a 21 string kora on a 6 string guitar has my admiration. read more here.

Tonight look for us at Kilbourn for Miguel Zenon, Christ Church – Dinosaur, Lutheran Church – Ikonostasis, Max for Marquis Hill Blacktet. Or someplace on the street. I will get to the Jam, not sure who will be with me.

XRIJF Day 2

We managed to live the plan! First stop, in the rain, was  Max where we got our wrist bands. Things are not working out as expected. This was to be a 6:15 show with Igor Butman, saxophone, and we figured by 4 we would be plenty early. NOT! We got wrist bands for the second group to be admitted at 5:50. While hanging in the drizzle we decided to get into the entry line for our wristband and wait there with friends, long time and brand new “line friends.” the time flew and soon we had front row seats right in the center of the hall, any closer and Igor would have been dripping on us. I cannot express all the superlatives of hearing this smaller group – quintet. Each performer was wonderful and the pianist, a young blind man, was incredible. He also sang beautifully in Russian and unaccented English. Butman is one of the best saxophone players we’ve heard playing both Tenor and Soprano Sax. And then it was over. . .

It had run late so we scrambled over to Lutheran Church to hear Eivor. Our plan was to stay for a couple of numbers and move on, but we took seats in the front row, center (a pattern?) and there we were transfixed. Her vocal range goes way up almost beyond where I can hear. Her control and dynamic range are gorgeous and her use of guitar, Faeroe Island drum and electronics were all well balanced. She told a story about her first trip to Jazz Fest and finding House of Guitars where she bought her first electric guitar which she was playing. And then she went there again the day of the performance and bought a new guitar which she said she had not played other than in the store and proceeded to play a number on it. We stayed right through the encore. And then it was over and time to move on. . .

To Kilbourn Hall where Billy Child’s Quartet was performing. To our total shock we were able to walk in 10 minutes before the show and get decent seats. Rain and time had reduced the audience some. There was some initial fiddling around as the drummer left the stage looking for something, then came back out and asked if someone in the audience had a drum key. Sure enough, John Beck, retired professor of percussion, sitting a row behind us stood up and walked down to the stage with his ever present drum key in hand. The show went on and I would advise if you want to read a great review of the performance read this, I can’t do it any better. Be sure to read about the saxophone player, is there another pattern here. And there was an encore and it was over. . .

The line outside Max at 10:10 meant there was no likelihood of getting to see Butman again so we moved on the the Big Tent where Huntertones were busy keeping the audience in an up tempo mood. They are a quintet including sax and trombone. We stayed through the encore, the sound level was fine, a quirk given this venue’s notoriety for pain inducing decibel levels. And it was over for the night, except after dropping Carol off at the apartment I went on  to the Jam and enjoyed some real jam session jazz and a unique experience of a French Horn in the jam. And I was exhausted and went home to sleep.

As I write Avi, our youngest grandson is on his way from LA to Rochester, I think I may have mentioned this a time or two. He decided, without any word from us, that the Sax was a better choice than the Clarinet even though it is more to drag. Great choice. We will pick him up sometime near 6 PM and drop his stuff in the apartment then head for Jazz Street. We need to buy him some XRIJF apparel, and show him the venues. Our plan is to take in the Adam Kolker Trio at The Little and maybe Red Hook at the Big Tent – both are Sax groups. If he has the stamina, it will be on to the Jam so he can get the lay of the land.

XRIJF Day 1

For any new readers; XRIJF is Xerox Rochester International Jazz Festival. It runs for 9 nights and includes free concerts on the streets, main stage events in Kodak Hall at Eastman Theater and concerts in 11 (that’s eleven) venues within a brisk 10 minute walk. For more information go to http://www.rochesterjazz.com/ Carol and I have 9 night Club Passes giving us access to all the venues for the duration. In past years we have averaged about 6 shows a night, which means leaving a few after just one or two numbers.

So Day 1: It started out dripping and threatening to rain hard as we walked from our apartment the few blocks to the hub of the Festival on Jazz Street – Gibbs Street 356 days of the year. We stopped by Kilbourn Hall to pick up wrist bands showing we had our place in line reserved and went out to wander the streets to see who was about. I don’t think I can detail all the people we saw. It is amazing, within 30 minutes we had sat and chatted with a classmate, Susie Plunkett, who we go back to kindergarten at 23 school with and with people we had stood in line with two years ago. Somehow we only got to 3 shows, but they were marvelous and we just couldn’t bring ourselves to walk out to get to something else. we started in Kilbourn with Tierney Sutton Band. They are a very tight group and she has a very powerful voice and has a great variety of styles. Loved her scat and her performance of a number from West Side Story was breath taking, both in her fidelity to the original and the emotion and power she brought to it.

We stayed on for her encore and then hoofed it around the corner to Hatch Recital hall for  Roberta Pickett on solo piano. The sound in Hatch is marvelous and she filled it with a varied program of standards and work she has arranged from settings that were never intended for solo piano. We were transfixed, sitting in the second row 2 in from the left aisle. Again we stayed on through her encore before moving on.

By now it was almost 9 PM – where was this evening going – and we hadn’t eaten anything yet. We wanted to hear Barbra Lica and her group at Max at 10 and the line was already forming. We set our chairs in the line and took turns going to get some food. I ate in the line and as we filed into the hall I found Carol with her dinner already in the hall. We joined a couple we had sat next to in Montage two years ago at a central table. They remembered us – Carol’s hair certainly is memorable and we them. Lica’s group are Canadian which they were sure to let us know and this is their first appearance at XRIJF. They were thrilled to be here and we were delighted they were too. She has a distinctive style and a breathy almost little girl voice. Her group are really solid and provide superb support. they are playing again tonight at Montage and anyone who missed them ought to consider listening to at least a number or two. Unusual for a 10 PM show at Max the crowd did not diminish as the the closing hour approached. Everyone seemed determined to hear it all.

Not quite the last show: We walked in the growing drizzle back to our apartment to drop off the chairs and the bags and walk across the street to the Radisson, the new home for Jazz Fest musicians and the Jam Session. The Hall is certainly bigger and more open than the club at the former Plaza. It is almost too comfortable. There was no sense on being on top of each other and clawing for space at the bar. It was quieter so we could even hear the music. I remain to be convinced that it will be a better experience.

Tonight: Our list for tonight includes Billy Child’s Quartet at Kilbourn; Eivor at Lutheran Church (she is gorgeous); Gabriel Alegria Afro-Peruvian Sextet at Xerox Aud and Igor Butman Quartet at Max. Watch this space for the next report.

A Long Journey

June 21,53 years ago my beautiful bride and I left Temple B’rith Kodesh in Rochester NY, newly married, on our way to London. That trip set the tempo for the life to follow. We toured England, Scotland, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Netherlands, Belgium and France for five weeks. We boarded HMS Queen Mary in Cherbourg and spent the last 5 days of the fairyland adventure crossing the North Atlantic. Although we slowed our travel tempo a bit as work and children required us to stay put, we continued to travel when possible. Carol was pregnant with Joel (known today as Yechiel) in February of 1966 when I had my new MBA Diploma in hand and we set off for a week in Bermuda.

And the travel has continued. When the kids were small we went on a family trip every Christmas Break with the entire family. Eventually the count got to 11 with my sister’s 3 and our two and our parents leading the way. We also traveled without the boys and Carol’s parents were always ready to move in and watch over them. Trips to Israel became a regular happening starting in 1971,  but we didn’t venture to other places very much. Italy in 1981. I cannot recall many of the trips in the late 1980’s and 90’s I would need to dig out old passports for records.

When Carol started teaching we decided that the best mid winter vacations would be to Latin America where it would be warm and jet lag would be minimal. Records of some of our travel can be found at my website goldberg-online.net In 2012 we started traveling with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) with a trip to Tanzania. We just returned from our eighth trip with them.

Roaming the continent is our passion. Without both of us loving the wandering life style it wouldn’t be possible. We love being in each other’s company and although it is always wonderful to make new friends around a campfire, across a dining room table or just sitting outside relaxing, we are good to be just us for an evening or a week.

Newfoundland here we come! (right after Jazz Fest starting on Friday night)

Back at Colton RV with Vodka in Hand

Some time back we had a self imposed encounter with some rocks and dirt that caused some damage to four compartment doors. For brevity’s sake lets just say I was willful and refused to listen to good advice, from Carol. None of you have ever done that have you? I messed up four compartment doors, three need to be replaced. John, at Colton RV, was not terribly sympathetic, but he was glad to order the three doors and prepare to paint all four. Met with him today and saw again his ever present smile and can do attitude. Have also scheduled routine service and some minor stuff with firm instructions that whatever is not fixed by July 6 will wait until September. We must be at the airport in Newark on the 8th to pick up Corey. It is a house of cards from then on.
A brief recap of the summer’s plan. Avi spends three days of Jazz Festival with us in Rochester. On July 7 we head for NYC (actually Jersey City, but what’s the difference) and pick up Corey before attending an unveiling for Carol’s brother Arthur. After a full Manhattan day with Corey we set off for Cape Cod and a visit with my sister Sandy for 4 days, On our way north we will spend some time in Boston – Freedom Trail with Corey – before putting him on a plane back to his parents. Onward from there to a Ferry from N Sidney NS to Newfoundland and three weeks of touring there before catching a ferry back to NS and begin a drive back to Rochester. Arrival is open. Departure is open, sometime After September 30. That is already too much schedule for our lives!

Returning to today or rather a few days ago, or was it even this year that we were in Central Asia with the very sterile, unoccupied Ashgabad

Where Carol and I sub in as the perfect couple for a Turkmen wedding. She was supposed to be crying because she was leaving her family, in reality she was stifling giggles.
On to Nukus and the famous – in some circles- Stavisky collection of thousands of works of art that were not permitted to surface during the Soviet era.
The only picture I got was these schools kids practicing their English on us as the prepared to tour the exhibits we had just left.

Then we were in Khiva, Uzbekistan, with interesting carpets and many, many columns.
From there we continued on our very comfortable bus to Bukhara. Known to some of us for the famous Bukharan Kepah, one of which I have worn every High Holiday since 1971. Not so uncommon here, actually thousands of them for sale especially at the Silk and Spice Festival which started its three day run coterminous with our planned stay in the quarter. 
Really getting in to baking bread

The bread adhering to the side of the oven

Us looking down into Registans the large courtyard in Bukhara

Can’t resist a picture of Thelma, we celebrated her 94th birthday during the trip

A street scene of Mausoleums

Just something a little different, rock crawling outside Bukhara

The tomb of Tamerlane, know in these parts as Amer Timor (Timor the Lame was an appellation of those who hated him)

The Registrans at night lit for tourists

 I will add more pictures later, but dinner time approaches. We returned to the coach to find the electrical system in disarray. The power was out, the refrigerator would not start and the solar system 40 amp fuse was blown, taking with it the fuse holder. A call to a local mobile RV place Athena Caochwork, at 3 PM on a Saturday resulted in the appearance of  tech at 7:45 with parts in hand, based on my description of the failure and one failure code. By 8:30 he was on his way and the refrigerator was busy cooling off! Whew!
The next day the Lodge had its annual car show and I wandered through, still in a jet lag daze viewing Corvettes and Vintage Mustangs and many other interesting cars. Monday as planned we set out for Rochester. Three 350 mile days later here we are in North Tonawanda. We will take the car and head to Rochester mid morning.

Safely back in the USA and 900 miles down the road.

Reentry into the USA was a no brainer for us. Traveling Business Class with Global Entry cards turned the expected hassle into a walk in the park. They looked at the phones but didn’t ask for passwords and basically we kept going at a walking pace right though all the security. OTOH getting though security to board the plan in Istanbul was a more of a hassle, mostly because we had to got through the same ritual three times! The flight On Turkish Air 777 was very comfortable in business. Plenty of room to stretch out and totally lay flat beds. Worth every penny.

Istanbul was a bit of a forspeice. If we hadn’t already been there.In the morning we wandered on our own into the gardens of Topkapi, which we had not seen in our previous trip. Later we went into the largest, oldest shopping mall where we were saved from buying anything by repeatedly asking where will we put it and who wants it. We did pass up some beautiful items but. . .

We are in Mansfield OH at a large campground on the outskirts sitting astride a lake. We have not ventured out as it is raining. and we are tired. This was day two from Kansas ‘city MO. One more day will put us in N Tonawanda where we will leave the coach for some service work and we will go on to the apartment in the Jeep.

We already have a day trip planned with Vic and Joyce, no driving for us! Just a gentle ride to Jerry and Barbara’s in Ithaca.

Preparing for Travel Unknowns

Thank you homeland security! I am getting ready to fly through Istanbul to the USA. Although our first stop is Istanbul with 24 hours layover, no one can tell us whether we are going to check through or have our baggage with us in Istanbul. Carry on is fine for an overnight, but if we are checking through, we must pack our cameras and computers now. To avoid issues with security I am going to post this and lock the computer away in my luggage with my camera. The memory cards for our cameras are in my carry on. The password for my phone has been changed to something obscene (but very obscured) for the benefit of the aforementioned homeland security. I am good to go!

When I am less rushed and annoyed, I will provide a more complete post about the whole trip. I must say this has been a wonderful adventure with a good group of fellow travelers. We look forward to future travel with Overseas Adventure Travel.

Khujand to Dushanbe

From the time I started reading about this trip the most exciting aspect was the long overland drive from Khujand to Dushanbe in Tajikistan.  This drive starts in the Ferghana Valley which is divided between Tajikistan, Uzbekistan an Kyrgyzstan. It is among the most fertile areas in the region. It narrows and eventually gives way to serious mountain passes with the road climbing to 9,000 feet and passing through two major tunnels and uncounted snow sheds before it descends to the southern valley with Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan at its foot. The notes in the itinerary are relatively brief calling for stops in Istaravshan to visit a couple of master craftsmen and the luncheon with the block print artist was cancelled because of Ramadan.

We visited a wooden comb maker and watched him make a comb from a block of wood:

Cutting the wood to dry for two years

Shaping the blank for the comb

Cutting the teeth

Even the decorations were added while we watched

 We bought a couple of combs for display, mine is a mustache comb!

The knife maker forging his blank from a leaf spring
Finished product

I was not thrilled with the source of his metal stock.

 We did have a lovely lunch at the home of a tour leader who was not working at the moment.

 There were various stops along the road, these dried fruit and nut sellers had set up shop in a wide spot where the road did a 180 degree hairpin turn

 It was startling to come up on this herd as were were hurtling along the highway around a bed at 35 mph.

Just a picture stop. That snow is not usually present on June 5, but they had a lot last winter.

We got into Dushanbe in time to check in to our hotel, a marvel of modern, comfortable conveniences. The wifi here even gets the New York Times. Cannot understand why it wasn’t available in Khujand, the second largest city in Tajikistan and it is available in the capital.